RV Removal and Disposal Services

An RV stops being a vehicle and starts being a problem on a specific day. The registration lapses, the roof seam opens, the floor by the entry step goes soft, and the unit that was going to get fixed next spring becomes the thing taking up half the driveway. By then nobody will buy it and the dealer will not take it in trade.

AMI Junk Hauling hauls units out in that condition. Flat tires, seized brakes, rotted floors, no keys, no title in hand — none of that stops a pickup. Crews bring winches, wheel dollies, and trailers rated for the weight, and the unit leaves whole rather than getting cut up in your driveway.

Send photos of the unit and the approach to it, or call and describe it: (888) 371-8120. You get an upfront figure in writing before anything is scheduled, and the estimate costs nothing.

Why people call about an RV

• Storage fees on a unit nobody has used in years and nobody wants to buy.
• An inherited motorhome sitting at a parent's house that has to go before the property sells.
• Water damage that started at a roof seam and spread until the walls delaminated.
• A unit parked on grass long enough that the tires flattened and the axles seized.
• An HOA letter or a code notice giving a deadline to clear the driveway.
• A trade-in the dealer turned down because the repair cost passes what the unit is worth.

Stuck, flat, and rotted is the normal job

A unit that has not moved in five years does not roll onto a trailer. The tires are flat and often cracked through the sidewall, the brakes have rusted to the drums, and the leveling jacks have sunk into the ground far enough to hold the frame. Getting it out is a winch job with wheel dollies under the seized axles, and sometimes plywood tracks laid across soft ground so the tow rig does not sink beside it.

The soft floor is the other half of it. Water that came in at a seam or a window frame travels along the subfloor, and by the time it shows inside, the plywood near the entry step will not hold weight. That changes how the unit gets loaded and where the straps go, but it does not change whether we take it. What matters for the estimate is the approach — gate width, overhead branches, the surface between the unit and the road — which is exactly what photos answer.

How it works

1. Send photos. The whole unit from both sides, the tires, and the path from the unit to the street. Include the gate and anything overhead.
2. Get a number in writing. We come back with an upfront figure based on length, weight class, access, and what the unit is worth as salvage. Same-day quote in most cases.
3. Sort the paperwork. Tell us what you have — title, registration, bill of sale, or nothing at all. Missing paperwork is common and it has a path.
4. Pick a window. Clear the approach, move vehicles, and unlock the gate. The crew brings the winch and the trailer for that weight class.
5. It leaves whole, and you get the release. The unit goes to a dismantler or a licensed facility, and you get a release of liability naming the unit and the date it left.

What we take

If it was built to be lived in and towed or driven, it goes. Condition is not a filter:

• Class A, Class B, and Class C motorhomes, running or not
• Travel trailers, bumper pull and gooseneck
• Fifth wheels, including units with collapsed landing gear
• Pop-up campers and tent trailers with torn or missing canvas
• Truck campers sitting on blocks in a yard
• Toy haulers with damaged ramp doors
• Park models that have not been moved in a decade
• Units with flat or missing tires, seized axles, or no keys
• Fire-damaged, flood-damaged, and delaminated units

Propane tanks come off and go to a proper exchange rather than onto the trailer. Fuel and batteries are handled at the dismantler, not left in your yard.

What moves the number

Four things decide an RV haul, and a photo answers most of them.

Size and weight class. A 40-foot diesel pusher and a 16-foot bumper-pull trailer are different equipment, different trailers, and different road permits. Length and weight set the floor of the estimate before anything else is looked at.

Whether it rolls. A unit with air in the tires and free-turning wheels can be pulled straight onto a trailer. Seized axles mean dollies under each wheel and a winch pull, which adds crew time and equipment.

Access. A unit parked on a paved driveway with a straight shot to the street is the easy end. One backed into a side yard behind a fence, under low branches, on soft ground, with a neighbor's car in the only turning space, is the other end. Tight approaches sometimes need a smaller rig and a longer pull.

Salvage value. Aluminum siding, the frame, the axles, appliances, and a drivetrain that still turns all have scrap or resale value, and that value works against the cost of the haul. A stripped shell with the copper already pulled out has less of it than a complete unit, which is why gutting a trailer before calling rarely helps the owner.

Title, registration, and the release of liability

Most people calling about an old RV do not have a clean title in a drawer. It was lost in a move, the unit came with the property, or the previous owner signed the back and nobody ever filed it. That is a normal starting point, not a dead end, and there is a documented path for each of those situations depending on the state.

What matters more than the title is the release of liability. Until something proves the unit left your possession on a given date, it is still tied to the last registered owner — and a unit abandoned on public land or dumped behind a shop can come back as a citation months later. AMI Junk Hauling issues a release of liability on every RV job, naming the unit and the date it was removed, whether or not the title itself gets transferred. Ask any hauler for that document in writing before they load.

How to pick who hauls it

Most operators do this properly. The ones who do not are hard to spot on the day, because from the driveway both look the same: a truck arrives, the RV goes away, the space is clear. What separates them shows up later, if the unit ends up parked on unposted land or behind a rented lot instead of at a dismantler.

Two questions sort it out before you book. Ask where the unit is going, by name or by facility type — a straight answer exists. And ask for the release of liability in writing. A company that will not put either in an email is telling you what kind of operation it is, and the risk of that answer stays with the registered owner, not with them.

RV removal near me: where crews run

Coverage is statewide rather than metro-only, which matters for units sitting on rural acreage and in storage lots outside town. Pick a state for how the work runs there — access, terrain, what the local dismantlers take — and the towns covered in it.

Northeast

Connecticut · Maine · Massachusetts · New Hampshire · New Jersey · New York · Pennsylvania · Rhode Island · Vermont

Midwest

Illinois · Indiana · Iowa · Kansas · Michigan · Minnesota · Missouri · Nebraska · North Dakota · Ohio · South Dakota · Wisconsin

South Atlantic

Delaware · District of Columbia · Florida · Georgia · Maryland · North Carolina · South Carolina · Virginia · West Virginia

South Central

Alabama · Arkansas · Kentucky · Louisiana · Mississippi · Oklahoma · Tennessee · Texas

West

Arizona · California · Colorado · Idaho · Montana · Nevada · New Mexico · Oregon · Utah · Washington · Wyoming

Other things we haul

• Junk Removal
• Boat Disposal
• Shed Demolition
• Hot Tub Removal
• Deck Demolition
• Pool Removal

Get a number on your RV

Send photos of the unit and the approach to it, or call and describe it: (888) 371-8120. You get an upfront figure in writing, a straight answer on the paperwork, and nothing is scheduled until you say so. The form on this page works too.